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Merry Christmas

26 Dec

How is it already Boxing Day?

Tomorrow is the date that Zak was supposed to be arriving in Kathmandu, but of course that’s not happening anymore. But, I still cannot believe how quickly time flies.

Christmas is over. The world did not end. It’s nearly 2013.

We had a pretty fantastic Christmas, especially considering that I have never been in a place where it felt less like Christmas anywhere in the world.

It is quite freezing in Kathmandu these days and the load shedding is getting continuously worse. But, on Christmas Eve we had a nice potluck at our friends/colleagues Greg and Lindsay’s lovely apartment. Considering none of us had much expectation for the food, the meal turned out quite epic, if I do say so:


We threw a Christmas day party at our place. It was a pretty fantastic turn out, with people trickling in and out throughout the day until about 11 pm. We only had power from 2pm until 6 pm, but still people stayed, drank, ate and were merry. It was pretty hilarious having 20 some people over in the dark, sitting by 3-4 candles.

We even got a little Christmas tree that Tara, Jen and I decorated with fair trade ornaments from FTG-Nepal’s member organizations, and some tinsel and other cute little things from the Supermarket. We were quite pleased.




Merry Christmas!!




India Days 1 & 2: Delhi

21 Nov

Delhi was not what I was expecting.

I guess because so many Nepalis told me ‘oh, India’s probably more chaotic than Pakistan’ I was expecting at least the chaos of Karachi. Turns out they were wrong. No doubt Delhi has some pretty run-down hoods, but there weren’t even close to the number of beggars as in Pakistan, there were some really fancy cars and homes that I wouldn’t necessarily compare to the upper class houses in Karachi.
In many ways it’s very similar to Kathmandu but it’s also so different. Delhi has a lot of parks, whereas there’s practically no green space in Kathmandu.

We went around with a rickshaw and saw many sites. Our first night after heading to red fort at night we found a Jainist temple which was so beautiful. Then, we stumbled across an Urdu festival and rode a ferris wheel and another merry go round. It was scary because it was held together by three tires. Our rickshaw driver home ended up showing us all sorts of back roads and side streets including the spice market and flower market. But then he got tired and made us take another rickshaw home, which was strange but he was so fun we were happy regardless.

Day 2

We started our day at a stand buying some pani and a random tourist from new Zealand started talking to us and took us for chai. He looked exactly like an ex-love of mine and made me uncomfortable, so we ditched him and got on our merry way. A new rickshaw driver agreed to take us on a tour of the sites for 500 rs for 5 hours. The problem was that he barely spoke any English. Neither Tara nor I do much research before going on trips so i can tell you where we went but not much about them. We saw the Qutab Minor, India Gate, Laxmi Temple, Red Fort and Hanumans Tomb.

Qutab Minar

India Gate

My friend who is from Delhi but who I met in Toronto working at the body shop, met us and convinced me that I should move to India!

We’ll see….


28 Oct

After Pokhara, we headed to Chitwan National Park – one of the most popular (non-trekking) tourist destinations in Nepal.

The bus from Pokhara was an interesting one as it was te eighth day of Dahsain festival, which is the day that buffalos or goats are sacrificed. We witnessed every step of the sacrifice from the window on the bus along the side of the road.

The bus was also interesting in a very horrible way as my DSLR camera and $100 were stolen. I am partially to blame as I left it on the bus with my bag, which is dumb, but it was a tourist bus and I left it for less than 5 minutes, but alas, someone awful stole it. I hope they break their fingers and cannot use it, and that karma gets them with a serious vengeance.

That obviously put a big damper on the rest of our trip, so when we arrived in Chitwan I was quite upset. But I held it together and enjoyed myself (though silently resenting people around me who had amazing cameras to photograph the animals with).

We were joined at the hotel by 5 friends/colleagues of mine which made the trip much more enjoyable. We stayed at a high-end resort called Royal Park Hotel and all the activities were included as well as food.

The first evening our activity was an ox-ride through town, followed by a cultural show of Tahru people dancing with sticks. At the end of the show we were invited to join in the dancing so one of my colleagues, Nafisa, and I joined in the circle.

The following day we went on a canoe trip to watch birds around the river, then headed to the elephant breeding centre, the museum on elephants, then the best part of the trip – bathed with the elephants, followed by free time in which we shopped, and then an elephant ride through the jungle.

View during the canoe ride

Dan and I getting ‘bathed’ by the elephant…

Second bath with two of the girls


Heading out on the elephant for a ride through the jungle

Elephants were given tikkas for Dashain

That night we heard rumors that there was a rhino that we could see in the jungle, so we got one of the guides to take us. We saw two together, cooling off under the water. We weren’t able to see their faces, though, and our disappointment was apparent to the guide. He offered to take us in the morning to look again.

Two rhinos cooling off in the river

The next morning, tagging along with a group of Dutch tourists going bird watching, we saw a rhino in the wild, moving about very slowly and eating.

Rhino eating in the wild. Picture taken by Nafisa.

Aside from getting my camera stolen, the trip was incredibly awesome, nearly perfect, I’d say.




28 Oct

Last weekend, Dan and I headed to Pokhara. The bus took about 7 hours and wasn’t bad other than not having a toilet on board.

We arrived in Pokhara by 3 pm or so and found our lodge with only a little difficulty. There was a girl traveling solo on our bus who we befriended and she ended up staying in the same lodge as us.

Before night fall, we wanted to go on a canoe ride, so we did that at about 4 pm and got caught in the very first rain fall since monsoon season ended a month ago. The timing was hilariously sucky, but I didn’t mind, it was actually quite nice.

Pokhara Fewa Lake

Our new friend Jo joined us for dinner at a restaurant recommended by The Lonely Planet and we all had steak and beer. Poor Dan was up all night sick because of it, though.

The next day we hung around Lakeside in Pokhara, rented rickety, unsturdy bicycles at $1 each for an hour, hung by the lake reading and drinking tea and went for another boat ride, this time a paddle boat hoping it would require less work (it did).

Fewa Lake, Pokhara

We called it a night super early because we were going to get up and watch the sunrise on top of a mountain called Sarangkot. So, we got up at 4 am and caught a cab to the mountain and walked about 30-45 minutes up to the top. There, for the first time, I saw the Himalayas and it was at dawn. Gorgeous site.


Dan overlooking the Himalayas from Sarangkot at dawn

We spent the remainder of the day hanging around Lakeside, again reading and sipping tea and tried out an authentic, super-cheap Nepali restaurant where we were served unlimited daal bhat.

Pokhara was gorgeous and serene, but packed to the brim with tourists.

We didn’t go paragliding or zip-lining, which are two of the main attractions there because it was so expensive. But I may go when I next visit Pokhara.




18 Oct

Happy Dashain 2069!!

This is the big festival in Nepal where everything closes for 10 days, so I got my twin brother to visit me. It happens to also be peak tourist season.

Daniel arrived on Sunday and has already been to most placs around Kathmandu. Heck he has seen more than I have!

Having him here has been awesome and for the most part we’ve gotten along, with the exception of him constantly telling me how much he hates my dyed hair and fake nails. But he’s had 3 days now to get used to them. Tuesday was the first day of the festival so I had the day off and we went to the 3 main temples around KTM: Bouddha, Pashupathi and Swambu.

Me and Dan at Bouddha!

I hadn’t yet visited Swayambu, also referred to as the monkey temple, so it was really neat to see. We got there at sunset, too, which provided for a really great, romantic view.

Swambunath at sunset

Dan’s has also served as a good distraction for me as Zak told me he’s officially not visiting and has moved on. I am happy for him in one sense as he deserves to be happy, but there’s a part of me that is honestly hurt that he moved on so fast when I’m still listening to sad music and wishing I’d hear from him. It makes me wonder if he’s found someone else. It’s the only explanation…

So, I am now looking at my solo-travel options while here.

Tomorrow, Dan and I are headed to Pokhara for 3 days then to Chitwan National Park, which is a huge tourist destination where we will ride elephants!! I can’t wait!

Today at work for Dashain, we had a Momo making party. They are so hard to make but we ate so, so many. I am still not fed up of them…Momos are basically dumplings but are extremely popular and common in Nepali and Tibetan cuisine. They can be steamed or fried and have veggies or meat inside.





Birthday Weekend

8 Oct

This weekend was quite nice.

Friday the plan was to stay in and have an early night so I would be awake and pumped for the Astrologer on Saturday. But with no electricity, and no laptop (update – my laptop is completely fried I need a new one, it sucks) I got bored and we decided to go to the bar.

It wasn’t such an exciting night but I didn’t want a very exciting night. I woke up Saturday at 7 to catch a cab to New Sadle’s CEO’s house where the Astrologer would be meeting us at 8.

My Astrology chart. Written in Sanskrit.

Here are some ย of the things he told me:

  • I was born in the year 2044
  • My Hindu name is Jhuma
  • I should start my own business within the next couple of years, preferably on my own but if I have a partner I should be sure it’s someone who does not like the colour black
  • I shouldn’t start anything new on Fridays
  • If I dream of a snake that means I shouldn’t start anything new
  • I am hard headed and when I love people I really love them but when I don’t like them I don’t want anything to do with them (well, duh)
  • I should be gentler with people because they don’t understand my need to be right all the time
  • I should avoid Leos because we both have very strong personalities
  • I should have married at 18 but since I didn’t, I should marry at 27
  • I need to be with a man from east or west of Toronto (anywhere in the world) not South or North
  • I like music but am not good at it
  • I will have 2 kids – first a boy, then a girl
  • I will travel a lot in my life but should take it easy between the ages of 33-36
  • I like to watch others dance and not dance myself (That is extremely false, I throw myself dance parties all the time)
  • I have health problems in ย my chest (which is true)
  • I was born with the love of a mother but not a father (also true)

It was interesting but as I needed constant translation, it took a while and I didn’t get a lot of answers or specifics I need. I will be praying to Shiva on Mondays or Saturdays for my future marriage.

I asked which stone to wear and he recommended the yellow one, in Nepali it’s called Pushpuraj and it’s to strengthen my weaknesses due to the weakness of my Jupitar star.

So, that was the Astrologer. I felt really into it while I was with him but now I’m feeling more and more jipped.

Afterwards I visited a colleague who lived nearby and she taught me to cook some curries and daal bhat, fed me and taught me a bit about Newari culture. Then, I went to Thamel and got my nails did ๐Ÿ™‚

For my Birthday on Sunday, I woke up feeling really content. I must first state how rare this is as birthdays are ususally quite hard for me. I just felt happy that I am turning 25 in Kathmandu not in Toronto doing the same old, same old. On the one hand, when I’m in Toronto I get phone calls and taken out to dinner, but here I only get Facebook posts even from family, but it’s ok. I’m living in Nepal, where I have dreamt of being for years, working with awesome people.

I went to the Farmer’s Market with Tara where we had waffles and yogurt and fruit and coffee then I went home, Skyped with both bros, made a collage, took a nap and then all the other volunteers came over to chat, drink wine then eventually head to dinner at a restaurant in Jamsikhel called Lhaksa’s Chulo. It was so nice and there were so many of us, and it felt really nice to be out celebrating my birthday. I never really do that in Canada and it was so nice being surrounded by all these lovely, interesting people.

Then we had cake and the candle said ‘5’ on it which made me laugh so hard. How cute.

It was a good birthday and now I am trying to be a mature 25 year old woman.

Wish me luck ๐Ÿ˜‰




28 Sep

This morning we got up early and walked to the new FTG office in Jamsikhel.

The walk to the new office is about 20 minutes – so not as convenient as the current office but still okay.

The Puja is done before we start to move in to make sure that there is good luck in the building and that good things happen to those that enter.

During the hour and half long ceremony, the Hindu priest blessed us with a tikka, then entered the puja room where apples and bananas were offered to statues and gods, prayers were chanted, water and milk was splashed all over the room including on the people observing, a penis god was worshipped and finally we were all blessed individually after offering the priest a bit of money.

During the ceremony, most people got up and walked out then came back to get blessed. I stayed the entire time, though, because I’m a trooper ๐Ÿ™‚

Here are some pictures of this morning’s Puja:

puja ceremony

Getting blessed and tikka’d

Tara and I after this morning’s puja